Knysna - Garden Route - South Africa
Badger's Lodge

Zimbabwe 2009

In July - August we went on a trip to Botswana, Zambia and Zimbawe, where we spent most of the time. We travelled in a group of 11: Katrin, Joachim, Marta (6), Emma (4) and the family of Joachim’s sister, Susanne, Spin, Leon (12), Selina (11) and 3 friends of ours from Germany Anton, Annette and Marc. Some of us started in Knysna with two 4x4s plus one trailer and met the rest of the group in Johannesburg.
20. Jul 2009: Knysna – Somerset East. To split the long trip to Joburg we (Joachim, Katrin, Marta, Emma, Anton and Annette) decided to have two stop overs, one in Mountain Zebra Nationlpark and one in Bloemfontain. But the trip didn’t start well. On our way to the Mountain Zebra Nationlpark, one vehicle had a major problem with the engine and we got stuck in Somerset East. We rented a cottage for the night.

21. Jul 2009: Somerset East – Bloemfontain. We headed for Bloemfontain, while Joachim went to Port Elisabeth to fix the vehicle. He will catch up with us in Joburg a few days later. We booked in at Bains Game Lodge at Bloemfontain. A good place to stay over with self-catering and hotel. Springbocks and lamas are running the property.

22. Jul 2009: Bloemfontain - Johannesburg. With an early start the next morning we made it comfortably to Johannesburg, where we stayed at our family’s. Joachim was still in P.E. as more problems turned up on the vehicle.

23. Jul 2009: Johannesburg. We had lots of plans about things to do in Joburg but with Joachim still in P.E. we only did some shopping. Stocking up the groceries for a group of 11 can take quite some time.

24. Jul 2009: Johannesburg. This morning the rest of the group arrived at Joburg Int. Airport, Susanne, Spin, Leon, Selina and Marc. The only one missing is Joachim, still in P.E. but confident to leave later that day and to head as far north as possible. He made it to Cradock.

25. Jul 2009: Maropeng. Still in Joburg waiting for Joachim to arrive we made a day trip to Maropeng the Cradle of Humankind. The visitor centre shows an exhibition, focusing on the development of humans and our ancestors over the past few million years. Close by the visitor centre is Sterkfontain Caves, where fossils of some of the earliest known life forms on Earth have been found.

26. Jul 2009: Johannesburg – Serowe. Joachim arrived the previous day late in the afternoon. With the group completed we started early the next morning to cross the border into Botswana and to stay overnight at the Rhino Sanctuary in Serowe. The sanctuary offers beautiful campsites in the bush with basic but working ablutions. At night we had the first encounter with the wildlife. A huge rhino was grazing behind the ablution block. Selina, Marta and Emma got quite a fright when the rhino ploughed through the bushes as Katrin told them “it is only a warthog”.

27. Jul 2009: Serowe – Francistown. Enroute to the north of Botswana we stopped in Francistown at the Marang Hotel, which also offers camping facilities. We stocked up our groceries. The next day we were heading for Pandamatenga, the border crossing into Zimbabwe.

28. Jul 2009: Francistown – Robin’s Camp, Hwange National park. Taking the route via Nata was quite a disaster. But as we headed for the border crossing into Zimbabwe at Pandamatenga we didn’t have a choice. Just a couple of kilometers beyond Nata the road is full of potholes. At some places there is hardly any tar left, just deep holes. It looks like the road department is taken preparations to build a new road next to the old one. We arrived at the border later than expected. Costumes and immigration was quick and easy. The officers have been very friendly and helpful. Just after the gate you are right in the bush. Dense, long grass is covering the ground and the road is only a track. It was getting dark and we still had to go 45 kilometers before reaching the gate of Robin’s Camp. Getting closer to the camp we saw some lions on an airstrip but there was no time for game viewing. We arrived long after sunset and did not expect to meet anyone in the camp. But out of the dark two rangers appeared and showed us to the campsite, which was completely dark and vacant. We pitched our tents in a circle around the braai place. After a quick supper the children went to sleep and the adults sat at the fire enjoying a cold beer. The first day in Zimbabwe! It didn’t take long and the first hyenas emerged. We chased them away but it was just a matter of time, when they would return. In the middle of the night after all of us went to sleep we heard Marc talking to someone. He was by himself in a single tent. He kept on talking and shouting. When we checked on him, he realized that none of us had been outside. A hyena was nibbling and licking at his tent and even trying to climb onto it. As he had no food in the tent we were wondering what could have attracted the hyena. We sprayed the tent with Peaceful sleep hoping this would keep the hyena away. The next morning we discovered the bite marks on tent and on some shoes, which somebody had left outside – much too silly!!! The following night we had been much better prepared. No shoes outside and mosquito repellent on a brand new tent.

29. Jul 2009: We spent to nights in Robin’s camp. On game drives we did not spot much game. Especially the impalas had been very shy and ran as soon as a vehicle approached. We saw lots of Giraffes.

30. Jul 2009: Robin’s camp – Mandavu Dam. The rangers working in Hwange NP are very friendly and helpful and so pleased to see any tourists. They recommended to spent one night at a dam instead of Sinamatella Camp. The camp at the dam is a picnic area and only one group is allowed to stay overnight. Overlooking the dam this camp is perfect to spot any wildlife. Lots of Hippos are in the water and crocodiles in all sizes. We did not see that much on a game drive as we did from the camp itself: elephants, zebras, impalas and a large herd of buffelos.

31. Jul 2009: Hwange NP – Victoria Falls. The last time we visited Vic Falls was in 1996. We were excited to see what might have changed. Petrol stations and some shops were closed. But otherwise Vic Falls was still the same small town with lots of chaps selling souvenirs on the street. Prices are still negotiable but now in US $. New is the „Tourist Police“, security guides that help visitors if the traders are too insistent. We camped for two nights at Victoria Falls Rest Camp, a very good campsite with tidy ablutions and restaurant with pool. In the afternoon we walked to the waterfalls. It is just an incredible sight!

02. Aug 2009. Victoria Falls - Livingstone. As we were heading for Mana Pools Nationalpark we had to get around Lake Kariba. We had chosen to go via Zambia. The road south of the lake is in such a bad state that it would have taken too long and the supply of food, water and petrol was doubtful. After a nerve-racking border crossing we went to stay at the campsite at the Waterfront Lodge.

03. Aug 2009: Livingstone – Sinazongwe. We decided to spend a couple of nights at Lake Kariba. The first stop was close to Sinasongwe at the Kariba Bush Club. This lodge and campsite at the lake with bar and pool is a beautiful place just to chill out and relax. They also offer boat cruises, fishing trips and tours to the nearby crocodile farm.

05 Aug 2009: Sinazongwe - Siavonga. After two days in the Bush Club we travelled to Siavonga, just for an overnight stay at Eagles Nest. This lodge and campsite had seen better days and appears very neglected. On the banks of the lake they even have a beach with bar but swimming is not recommended as there are lots of crocs in the water.

06. Aug 2009: Siavonga – Mana Pools National park. The next morning we left for entering Zimbabwe at Kariba. The immigration is no problem but we had some hassle with the vehicles. Zimbabwe requires all sorts of documents and certificates, which we did not have. Finally with lots of talking, chatting and some ‘presents’ such as sweets, we managed to get the stamp on our gate pass (still a shabby piece of used paper). We had about 175 km to get to Manna Pools Main Camp. The roads in Zimbabwe are very good. Hardly any potholes and everything well post signed. But the 75 km through Mana Pools NP to Nyamepi Camp took us more than 2 hours as this gravel road is very rough and worn out. We arrived in the afternoon and pitched our tents right on the banks of the Zambezi. For the next 3 days we camped in Nyamepi. On the second and third day it got very busy on the camp as lots of Zimbabweans came to visit Mana Pools for a long weekend. The game drives were not very effective. We saw much more game on the camp site and the opposite river banks. Three elephant bulls came to visit the camp regularly. They were looking for the fruits of the Anaboam. One elephant got very attached to one of our vehicles. He ripped of a mirror, scratch the bonnet and maybe if not being disturbed might have done more damage. Beside the elephants, hyenas, buffalos, impalas, waterbucks, hippos and honey badgers came into the camp.
09. Aug 2009: Mana Pools NP - Harare. We had a lovely time at Mana Pools but had to return to South Africa. On the A1 we went to Harare. We were very excited to see the capital. As we arrived on a Sunday afternoon the roads were quiet. Not many vehicles, no pedestrians but also no police or military. We spent the night at the Cresta Lodge just outside the City centre, which is safe and comfortable. The next morning we stocked up our groceries and left for the Great Zimbabwe Ruins.

10. Aug 2009: Harare – Masvingo. Heading south on the A4 we went to Masvingo and to the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. „Great Zimbawe“ is the name of stone buildings, which have been built in the 11th and 12th century and which are some of the oldest and largest structures located in Southern Africa. The ruins that are still left are very impressive. We pitched our tents on the campsite just outside the ruins. Although it was a neat and tidy campsite we had a bad feeling, as we have never camped here on our previous trips. We were the only people staying overnight. As it went dark a vehicle approached. It was a security guard, who was supposed to watch us. We never stayed on the this campsite before, because it was well-known for gangs sneaking in at night and robbing the tents. We slept armed with axes, knifes etc and not very well. We were glad to leave the campsite the next day.

11. Aug 2009:Masvingo – Tshipise. Our journey through Zimbawe came to an end when we crossed the border at Beitbridge back into South Africa. The next stop was Tshipise, a small town, which is renowned for it hot springs. At the springs is a resort, which offers chalets and camp sites. It was just wonderful to swim in the hot pools. The kids had a ball and so we decided to stay at another resort with hot springs the following day, Bela Bela, formerly Warmbath. The resort at Warmbath is very big with lots of different pools and waterslides. We spent lots of time in the luke warm water. The campsite is comfortable and clean with lots of long term visitors.

12. Aug 2009: Bela Bela – Sun City: The first gambling casino in South Africa is at Sun City, which is situated in the bushveld of South Africa's North West province and surrounded by the imposing mountains of the Pilanesberg. Built in the middle of nowhere in the formely homeland of Bophuthatswana, Sun City is a set of buildings, which only exists of 4 hotels, one casino and entertainment centre, a golf course and an adjacent game reserve. The complex is very posh and we did not right fit into this environment. The stay over was a treat (and not cheap) and we enjoyed the enormous breakfast buffet the most.

13. Aug 2009: Sun City – Ventersburg: After the fabulous breakfast we packed up for Johannesburg International Airport, where Susanne, Spin, Leon, Selina and Marc had to catch their plane back to Germany. The rest of us drove back to Knysna. We tried to get as far south as we could and ended up in the vicinity of Ventersburg, where we booked into a chalet at the William Pretorius Dam.

14.Aug 2009: Ventersburg – Knysna: Still 900 km to go back home to Knysna. We had an early start and arrived safe and sound in Knysna in the late afternoon. Again we had a fantastic trip.